Myoshin-ji Temple is a huge complex of temple buildings and sub-temples in north-west Kyoto, overflowing with gardens, art, and meditative opportunities. Michael Lambe takes us on a tour of this profound and historical site.
The southern entrance to Myoshin-ji – image © Michael Lambe
Myoshin-ji, or “Sublime Heart Temple,” is a massive Zen temple complex in the north west of Kyoto. In addition to its main buildings the grounds contain 46 sub-temples, all connected by beautifully preserved stroll paths. The grounds of the compound are so extensive that walking them you feel very much like you have entered another world, a kind of Buddhist village. In fact, most of the sub-temples are family homes as well as places of worship, and are not open to the public. Nevertheless, one can still enjoy the unique atmosphere here, walking the lanes between the temples, and peeking into the gates.
Exploring the grounds – image © Michael Lambe
Of Myoshin-ji’s main buildings it is possible to visit the Hatto, or Lecture Hall, to view the fantastic dragon painting inside. Of the sub-temples, only three are regularly open to visitors: Taizo-in, Daishin-in and Keishun-in. However, you can also visit the sub-temple Shunko-in if you join one of their morning meditation sessions.
The Main Temple Buildings and the Dragon Tour
The grounds of Myoshin-ji were originally a palace for the Emperor Hanazono, but after his retirement, he decided to take holy orders and dedicate his life to Zen meditation. In 1342 he donated his palace to the Zen monk Kanzan Egen, and it was Egen who founded the temple.
The Emperor Hanazono after he became a monk – image public domain
Most of the original buildings were destroyed in the Onin War of 1467–1477, so the buildings we see today date from the late 15th to 17th centuries. Today Myoshin-ji is one of the major Zen temples in Kyoto, and the head temple of the Rinzai school of Zen. Approaching from the southern entrance, the main buildings of the temple are laid out from south to north in the following order.
The Chokushimon – image © Michael Lambe
This is the Chokushimon, or Imperial Messenger’s Gate, and is closed to anybody who is not an Imperial messenger! It dates from 1610.
The Sanmon – image © Michael Lambe
The vermilion Sanmon, or Mountain Gate, was built in 1599.
The Butsuden – image © Michael Lambe
The Butsuden, or Buddha Hall, houses an image of the Buddha and dates from 1827.
The Hatto – image © Michael Lambe
The Hatto is the Dharma Hall, or Hall of Teaching. This building, which dates from 1656, is where the monks receive their instruction in Zen doctrine. Myoshin-ji follows the typical Zen order of buildings in placing the Dharma Hall further to the north than the Buddha Hall. This signifies the belief that Buddhist teaching is more important than the Buddha himself.
The Hojo – image © Michael Lambe
The Hojo, or the abbot’s residence, lies behind the Hatto. Enter here to buy a ticket for a tour of the Hatto and of the temple’s bathhouse. The tour costs 500 yen, lasts for 30 minutes, and is given in Japanese. However, it is the only way you can visit the Hatto and view the dragon that is painted on the ceiling and for this reason alone it is worth it. Painted by Kano Tan-yu (1602 – 1674), the Unryu-zu, or “Cloud Dragon Painting,” took eight years to complete. Now it whirls dramatically among its painted clouds in an uncanny representation of movement. The eye of the dragon is at the center of the picture and its gaze is so piercing and so inescapable that no matter where your vantage point, you may wonder if you are the viewer or the viewed. You are not allowed to take pictures of the dragon, but when you buy your ticket you will be given a large brochure with a poster-sized reproduction of the image that makes a fine souvenir.
A reproduction of Kano Ta-yu’s dragon on the tour brochure. – image © Michael Lambe
After leaving the Hatto, you will be taken to the Yokushitsu, or bathhouse. In the past, water was a scarce resource and the number of monks at the temple was great, so the preferred method of bathing was in a steam bath that would waste less water. Monks would enter the bathhouse in silence, be shuttered inside and then sweat and meditate there while steam from heated well water cleansed their bodies. This particular bathhouse was built in 1587 and is named the “Akechiburo,” or Akechi bathhouse, after Akechi Mitsuhide, a famous general in the Warring States Period who is best known for rebelling against his master Oda Nobunaga.
The Yokushitsu or bathhouse – image © Michael Lambe
Tour times are as follows:
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